Biography

Sue Fear

*Sue Fear was born in 18th March, 1963 and grew up in St Ives and then lived in Wollstonecraft on Sydney's North Shore in Australia.  

*She was head prefect at St Ives North Primary then educated at Abbottsleigh & Barker College in Sydney. Whilst at school, Sue achieved the Gold Duke of Edinburgh's Award, which was her first introduction to adventure and self-reliance.

*After finishing school in 1980, Sue took a course with Outward Bound in the mountains near Canberra. This opened up many possibilities for adventurous pursuits; Sue began to seek out more challenges both locally and overseas. Over 10 years, Sue steadily accrued qualifications and experience in the travel industry. She gained a position in the Sydney office of Australian Himalayan Expeditions (now World Expeditions), which allowed opportunities to work as a part-time guide in cross-country skiing, rafting, cycling and walking programs, and introduced her to the magnificent Himalaya region. Furthering her skills, Sue undertook a mountaineering course in New Zealand in 1986 and realised she would soon be returning to this new found sport. The following year she left her office job to travel, and climbed Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m) Africa's highest peak, her first climb at altitude.

*In 1988 Sue was appointed manager of Wilderness Expeditions (formerly owned by Tim Macartney-Snape) where she gained valuable experience in planning and implementing expeditions. World Expeditions took over Wilderness Expeditions in 1993, and once again opportunities for adventure travelling and mountaineering emerged. Sue's work now included guiding throughout the year on various high altitude programs in the Himalaya, Karakoram, and in the Andes.

*From 1993, Sue spent the majority of each year guiding treks and climbs in various parts of the world, adding new destinations and programs each year to her already extensive CV.

Sue was sponsored by Australian outdoor gear specialists, Mountain Designs, which allowed her to test and advise on gear as well as work as a sales consultant in the company's Sydney store.

*Sue regularly tested her own skill levels in the mountains, undertaking reconnaissance trips to a wide variety of locations, but her first major climbing project was to Makalu II (7680m) in 1997. Sue was leader of a small group to this Himalayan peak, and on reaching the summit, became the first Australian team to do so.

*With this success she moved on to a greater peak, Sue then made plans for another Himalayan peak; Mt Cho Oyu (8201 m), sixth highest mountain in the world. This time however, she chose a lightweight style of climbing, travelling only with one partner on the mountain, with the support of a simple style base camp. With her Nepali colleague and friend Nima Tamang, they reached the summit on 24 September 1998, this time the record was the first successful ascent by an Australian woman.

*The next personal climb for Sue was Shishapangma (8012m) situated on the vast steppes of the Tibetan plateau. In the spring of 2000, with two Australian friends and a sherpa, they aspired to reach the summit but it was not to be. Altitude sickness of party members necessitated descent and, upon returning to Australia and preparing for an attempt the following year, Sue broke her foot. Undeterred, she quickly recovered and led a succession of trips for World Expeditions in Bolivia, Russia, Kyrgyzstan and Nepal before securing a permit to return to Shisha in the spring of 2002.

*This time by lightweight style, with base camp support only, she achieved the summit on 15 May.

*Then in 2003 Sue secured a permit to climb Mt Everest with Russell Bryce's expedition from the Northern side and in May she became 2nd Australian female to climb Mt Everest, 1st Australian Born female and 1st Australian female to climb from the North face.

*She was then that same year made Australian Geographic's "Adventure of the Year"

* In 2004 Sue was offered to lead a group to Gasherbrum II after a guide had pulled out, she successfully summited it in April.

* Sue was finally recognized for all her work in climbing and charity and was awarded the "Order of the Australian Medal" (O.A.M.) in 2005.

*In 2005 after colaboration with good friend produced a biography about Sue called "Fear No Boudary - The road to Everest and beyond" Written by Lincoln Halla second edition was printed at the time of Sue's death.

*Sue looked at others mountains and decided Mt Manalsu was her next goal, with recent Maoists problems this area had not been climbed recently and it had a reputation for avalanches.

She reached the top on May 28th but on her decsent fell into and crevasse and became unconscious. The Sherpa, Binshu unable to pull her up secured her to the ice to pulley her up but fell further in.

Sue had become 1 of only 10 females to climb 5 or more mountains over 8000mtrs which made her Australia's leading female high altitude climber to date.

Sue gave regular motivational talks to businesses and to schools involved in the Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme

*She was an ambassador for the Fred Hollows Foundation, an organisation committed to the prevention and restoring of sight in developing countries such as Nepal.

Also and ambassador for the Australian Himalayan Foundation helping poorer Nepalese communities

*A plaque has now been placed to commemorate Sue on a hill above the mountain resort town of Bandipur (near Dumre) which overlooks Manaslu the Highest mountain in the Ganesh Himal

FULL CLIMBING NOTES
Sue Fear

2006

May-Summited Mt Manaslu on 28th and fell into a crevasse on her descent approx 7800 mtrs

2005

June- Awarded Order of Australia Medal (OAM)

April- Lobuche East & Island Peak

Aug- K2 trek in Pakistan crossing the Gondogorro Pass

Oct- Nanda Devi trek ,India

2004

July- Climbed Gasherbrum II, Pakistan(8000m)

Nov- Climbed Mera Peak

2003

May- Summited Mt Everest on 31st from the North face, (8848m)

June- Awarded Australian Geographics "adventure of the Year"

Nov- Summited Mt Kinabalu, Sabah

2002

Mar- Recon. of Annapurna Mardi Himal area - 2wks

Apr/May- Shishapangma (8012m) Tibet. Successful ascent 15 May

June -Summits Bolivia - 3wks - 8 clients

Aug- Kamchatka, Russia - 3wks - 7 clients

Oct- Mera Peak, Nepal - 4wks- 10 clients. Successful ascent with 8 clients

Nov- Mardi Himal -3wks- 7 clients

2001

Feb-Jun - Broke foot - Out of action & unable trek.

July- Summits of Bolivia - 3 wks - 8 clients

Aug- Tian Shan & Silk Route Cities in Kyrgyzstan - 3 wks - 12 clients

Sept -Kamchatka, Russia - 3wks - 10 clients - first departure for World Expeditions

Oct- Kwangde Peak expedition, Nepal - 3wks - 12 clients - first departure for WE.

2000

Spring - Shishapangma expedition (8012m) - reached a point at approx 7500m. Progress hampered by severe altitude sickness in party. Climb abandoned.

July- Summits of Bolivia climbing trip - 8 clients

Aug- Kygyzstan - Tian Shan mountains trek - 13 clients

Oct- Bhutan Snowman Traverse,  15 clients. Route crosses 11 passes in 3 weeks.

1999

Received Australian Geographic `Spirit of Adventure' Award.

April- Nepal - Mera Peak trip - 11 clients. 4th successful ascent with clients

June- Peru - Reconnaissance climb of Ausangate (6372m).

July- Summits of Bolivia program - 11 clients

Aug- Tajikistan/Uzbekistan - Pamirs trek - 9 clients

1998

April- Nepal - Mera Peak - 12 clients, all reached summit.

June- Vietnam/Laos - Reconnaissance climb of Mt Fansipan (3195m), highest mountain in Vietnam.

July Bolivia - Summits of Bolivia - 4 clients

Autumn- Mt Cho Oyu expedition (8201 m). On Nepal/Tibet border, 6th highest         mountain in the world. Successful ascent with Nepali partner Nima Tamang in lightweight, self-reliant style without bottled oxygen. First ascent by an Australian women.

1997

April - Nepal - Mera Peak 

        Ecuador - 4 clients - Cotapaxi, Tungurahaua Reccy to Jishka Pata

June - Summits of Bolivia program - 9 clients

Autumn - Makalu II expedition (Kangchungtse) (7680m). Leader of small independent team of 4, (1 evacuation) and with climb sherpa Nima Tamang. First successful Australian ascent of the mountain, a satellite peak of Makalu I.

1996

Feb -New Zealand - Technical Mountaineering course followed by climb in Mt Cook region including traverse of Mts Green, Walter and Elie de Beaumont in one day.

April- Nepal - Mera Peak

June- Ecuador/Bolivia - Reconnaissance climbs of; (Tungurahua 5016m, Cotapaxi 5897m, Chimborazo 6010m, Cayambe 5850m) and 3 mountains in Cordillera Real, Bolivia including Huayna Potosi 6088m in 3 week period.

Aug - Pakistan - K2 trek - 10 clients. Crossed Gondogoro Pass (5750m).

Oct- Nepal - Mera Peak

1995

April

Fred Hollows Foundation - coordinator of teams relay fundraiser from Bourke to Sydney.Nepal - Tent Peak (5500m) - Annapurna region

Aug- Pakistan - Led two treks in succession to the foot of K2. One trip, in support of Peter Hillary's team attempting the summit.

Oct- Nepal - Teshi Lapcha (5750m) Traverse

1994

Jan- Patagonia - two series of trips with clients in Chile and

Argentina.

April Nepal - Teshi Lapcha pass (5750m) reconnaissance followed bygroup of 8 clients

Aug- Pakistan - K2 Trek - 12 clients

Oct- Nepal - Teshi Lapcha Traverse -

1993

March- New Zealand

April- World Expeditions takes buys Wilderness Expeditions from Adventure World.

1992

July Peru - Cordillera Blanca climbing, Pisco, Wallnaraju, Chopocalqui (dns).

1991

Nov -  Nepal - Mera Peak/Amphu Latsa pass -First climb in the Himalaya.

1987

Feb- First mountain climb; Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m), Mt Kenya, Ruwenzori Mtns

1986

Feb- New Zealand - Technical Mountaineering Course with Alpine Guides - 14 days.

Sue gave regular motivational talks to businesses and to schools involved in the Duke of Edinburgh Award Scheme*She was an ambassador for the Fred Hollows Foundation, an organisation committed to the prevention and restoring of sight in developing countries such as Nepal.Also and ambassador for the Australian Himalayan Foundation helping poorer Nepalese communities*A plaque has now been placed to commemorate Sue on a hill above the mountain resort town of Bandipur (near Dumre) which overlooks Manaslu the Highest mountain in the Ganesh Himal.

 
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